Basic guide to Fresh Aquarium setup Part 2

During part 1 we discussed on about the basic concept of a aquarium tank, a hood and the type of filters. Today, in the part 2 discussion we will talk about the basic introduction to the various type of substrate, the concept of water conditioners and the purpose of a test kit. We will leave the discussion about thermometer, heater, decoration and stand to part 3. Sorry for unable to post all three parts at the same times. The reason being i usually only have around 1-2hrs per day for doing the blog and that include researching. Thus, in order not to give any false information to the people reading this, i have to make sure everything i said is true.

Ok, now get into the discussion for today. The substrate of any aquarium is the material that is placed on the bottom of the tank for decoration. Traditional substrates includes sands and gravels, which can be found naturally in the any body of water. In most freshwater aquariums the substrate should be inert, which means that it will not dissolve or leach elements into the water, particularly any that may affect the pH of the tank water.

Different type of substrate

Pea gravel
This material is an excellent choice for coldwater and tropical aquariums and is safe to use with all types of fish. It is available in sizes from 4mm (1/8 in) up to 2cm (3/4 in), and its round particles make it good for fish that like to dig. It will not readily compact and it can also be easily cleaned. Pea gravel should be used in a layer about 5cm (2 in) deep. It offers good anchoring for plants, the smaller particle sizes being best for prolonged plant growth.

Silica sand
Silica is available as a sand and a grit and can be used in all freshwater aquariums. It is very dirty when first purchased and will take a lot of rinsing before the water runs clear. Its color is similar to that of soil and it can be used to good effect for creating natural-style aquariums. Its small particle size is useful for plant growth and it should be used at a depth between 2.5cm (1 in), where there are no natural plants, and 10cm (4 in) for heavily planted aquariums.

Silver sand
This is the original universal aquarium substrate, given that it is found naturally all over the world in streams, rivers, lakes and oceans. Its name is a little inaccurate, since its overall color is golden and is essentially the same material as that found on most beaches. It needs to be washed thoroughly when first purchased, and it can be messy to work with because its tiny particles get everywhere. Plants can be grown in it, but some species are better suited to it than others. For a heavily planted tank, mix silver sand with substrate fertilizer and use a heating cable to prevent stagnation.

Colored gravels
There is a huge market for colored gravels and every imaginable color is available, from black to shocking pink. It is mainly used in ornamental aquariums and can liven up tanks that are not brightly lit. Light colors will attract algae growth and should be regularly cleaned to prevent it. Black gravel look attractive in natural-style aquariums and highlights fish and plant coloration. Wash all colored gravels because a lot of plant covering will have ground off the gravel particles in the bag.

Grit
Grit is a term used for substrates with a particle size between fine sand and fine gravel - that is, 2-3 mm (1/16 - 1/8in) and is fine enough to encourage plant root growth within it.

Pro and Cons summary of various substrate,

Pea gravel
Pros
- Easy to clean; inert; safe for all fish
Cons
- Too coarse for some plants to grow in

Silica sand
Pros
-Cheap; Natural looking; good for plant growth
Cons
-Needs thorough washing when purchased to remove dust

Silver sand
Pros
-Natural looking; suitable for all aquariums
Cons
-Prone to clogging; particles can end up in filter chambers and powerheads

Colored gravel
Pros
-Brighten up aquariums; popular with children
Cons
-Colors fade over time bright colors attract algae growth

Grit
Pros
-Small enough to anchor plants
Cons
-Can be dirty when first purchased

Water conditioners
There are many different type of Water conditioners out there for aquarium. But the most important we are talking about here is Chlorine Neutralizer. The water coming out from our type have abundances of chlorine contain in it and we want to remove it. Its optional to have a water conditioners as by leaving water in a buckets or tanks for over 24hrs will have most of its chlorine content removed naturally.

Test kits
The importance of water testing for modern aquarist cannot be underestimated. Water testing can tell us so much more about how the tank is running than is possible with




the naked eye. Water can be crystal clear and yet still contain extremely high levels of toxic ammonia and nitrite, as well as nitrate and phosphate. The pH and hardness of aquarium water are also impossible to tell just by looking, so a test kit can be used to determine whether particular pollutants are present and whether subsequent action should be taken.

Test kits work by using reagents that change color, which can then be cross-referenced against color charts. Usually each reagent will test for only one parameter, such as pH, and so a kit will include several different tests. A recommended test kit is the Freshwater Master Test Kit( Picture above). The kit is complete for testing tap water and aquarium water. It includes pH (6.0 to 7.6), high range pH (7.4 to 8.8), Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. A cheap and reliable test kit to buy.

I will try to set up a more thorough explanation of test kits sometimes in future.



Go to part 3.