Comet (Carassius Auratus)
One of the most important aspects of taking care of Betta is feeding them. With the right kind and amount of food, it will ensure a healthy and lively betta. Following is a few tips on feeding your Betta.
1) Not to overfeed - Feed them by hand. So that you can monitor exactly how much they consume. Feed them once per day and only as much as they can consume within two minutes. Overfeeding leads to constipation and constipation leads to bacterial infections and swim bladder trouble. Overfeeding also results in waste food lying in the substrate, which rots down and becomes a host for harmful bacteria that can attack and harm your fish.
2) Feed the right food - Commercial foods that are formulated specifically for Betta is the best options. Live food like Blood worms, Mosquito larvae and Brine shrimps are their favourite and they can go crazy upon seeing them. Note: They will generally ignore Flakes, so be careful not to waste your money on those.
3) Clean out uneaten food- Use your fish net to take out all uneaten food from the tank. You do not want it to start contaminate the tank and harm your Betta.
4) Get their Attention before Feeding - Sometimes they might be daydreaming, or just thinking of something else. Let them know that you are going to feed them. If they show no interest, try drop 1 or 2 pellets into the water. If they start having the right appetite, continue your normal feeding procedure.
Related article
Intro to Siamese fighting Fish (Betta)
Tips on treating Betta Fin rot
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Common GoldFish (Carassius Auratus)
Have You Got Aquarium Problems?
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Scott_Andrew_Richards]Scott Andrew Richards
You love your aquarium. It's a beautiful site. You have spent a great deal of time and money on it and the last thing you want is to lose that investment. That is why I am writing this article. There are a few aquarium problems you need to understand in order to maintain a healthy environment. If you know about these common aquarium problems and attack them early you will be a very happy person and enjoy your aquarium for many years to come. Here is a lit of those most common aquarium problems:
1. Lots o' Snails
2. Nasty ugly algae
3. Too much for dinner
4. Elevated chemical levels
Let me explain them further...
Aquarium Problem #1 - Lots o' Snails
Since snails breed like the small pox you will notice over time an elevated number of them living in your tank. These crazy little critters can fertilize their own eggs and even procreate with themselves. This strange behavior makes them seemingly appear overnight. Don't get me wrong some snails are good. They do keep some aquarium problems at bay. They act as little pool vacuums eating all the dead and decaying stuff lying around - yum. So how do you control the approaching hoards? Simple -- add loaches, to your tank. They will eat the little guys and keep their population regulated.
Aquarium Problem #2 - Nasty Ugly Algae
I know you hate this one. It's a creepy little aquarium problem that lurks and mocks you every time you try to get rid of it. There's brown slime algae, blue-green algae, brown algae, green water and hair algae. All equally detestable. Knowing the cause of these algae will help you decide upon the proper cure. That brown-slim algae is caused by a lack of ammonia in the water. The blue-green stuff is a result of cloudy water. And, the green water and hair algae are directly linked to an excess of nitrates and nitrites.
Aquarium Problem #3 - Too Much For Dinner
Ever hear the phrase "He eats like a fish"? Well, the reason we say that is because fish do not know when to say when. Dump the whole container of food in the water and the fish will eat and eat and eat. This could kill the little darlings. Also, overfeeding fish can lead to an imbalance in the nutrients in the tank. All that food that they miss will eventually sink to the bottom of the tank and settle in the gravel making for a real messy situation. Thus leading to cloudy water and you guessed it blue-green algae - yeah, the circle of life!
Aquarium Problem #4 - Elevated Chemical Levels
This most often occurs when you just get your new tank. Called "new tank syndrome" you begin to see fish mysteriously die while you adjust the levels of ammonia and nitrite in the tank. A simple cure for this is to stock the tank slowly and give it time to adjust to changes. You can, also, try something like Algone to treat the water. Algone is used to correct nutrient imbalances and clear cloudy water.
So basically, in a nutshell, avoid many aquarium problems by simply keeping up with regular maintenance. Don't just place your aquarium in the corner and forget about it. It takes regular care in order to avoid these basic aquarium problems.
To read more aquarium-related issues visit my blog: http://www.homeaquariumresource.com
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The Clear-Seal coffee table aquarium comes with a toughened glass top that has polished rounded edges. It has either a reproduction or mirror corner section that covers the filter and lighting system. All of the coffee table aquariums come complete with light diffuser (the one in the corner to illuminate the tank, the one under the tank is optional), fine and coarse biological sponges, plastic filter cover and acrylic table top support blocks which are designed to minimize sound vibration coming into the tank. To avoid a stressful situation for your fish we do recommend using coasters. The corner section is available in any of these reproduction colours: Dark Oak, Light Oak, Limed Oak, Medium Oak, Yew, Mahogany or Mirrored glass. The Clear-Seal Coffee Table Fish Tank is suitable for the following coldwater fish: Black Moors, Bubble Eye, Chocolate Pom Pom's, Comets, Fan Tails, Orandas, Shubunkin or small Koi. The Clear-Seal Aquarium Coffee Table forms a stunning blend between the practicality of a piece of furniture and the peaceful world of a natural aquatic environment. Here is some useful information and advice to help you maintain you Aquarium Coffee Table and maximise the benefits of this tranquil aquatic display that you can bring into your home or place of work: Filtration System: The aquarium is equipped with a unique filter system that is designed to minimise the physical maintenance required to keep the table's natural fresh water environment healthy and problem free. How it works:- The water pump and filtration system is located in the coffee table's corner section. the pump continuously circulates the water and bacteria througha three stage filtration system. It operates silently and on a low power consumption. Filtration and water cleaning is achieved by the pump drawing the water through the filter system. The two biological sponge filters will collect all fish waste and any other foreign particles. The Cleanwater Medium or Active Carbon Bag removes harmful chemicals from the water and effectively 'polishes' it. Aquatic Plants & Rocks: The plant and rock formation is not only aestetically pleasing, but an integral ingredient in any aquatic environment. Ensure that any rocks or stones that are used in the aquatic display are thoroughly washed before use and do not restrict the water circulated by the pump and filter system. Aquarium plants must be weighed down at the roots and wedges amongst the rocks. This will ensure that the plants will remain in place despite the water current created by the pump. Please note some plants may be partially eaten by the fish population, also general waste may accumulate under the rock formation and should be removed from time to time. At this time you may wish to rinse the rock in fresh water. Fish Population: This Coffee Table Fish Tank creates a perfect environment in which a large selection of cold water fish can live healthily and happily. Some suggested breeds are:- Black Moors, Bubble Eye, Chocolate Pom Pom's, Comets, Fan Tails, Orandas, Shubunkin or small Koi. The overall quantity of fish per table is determined by the water surface area in relation to the size of the fish. When stocking your coffee table aquarium the following levels are recommended (Keep in mind that your fish will grow! Especially Goldfish are known to easily grow out of proportion to your tank.): Overall Maintenance And Up Keep: The exterior of any glass furniture will obviously need cleaning from time to time as fingerprints etc. build up on it. There many brands of glass cleaner which can be used, however great care must be taken to ensure that these products do not enter the aquarium through the air gap around the top as this may kill the fish. An alternative to using a glass cleaner is to use warm water on a wash leather and polish it off with a clean cloth. The filter system should be attended to every two weeks, all that is required is to wash out the two biological sponges in cold water. Do not rinse out the Cleanwater Medium or Active Carbon Bag. Every three month this will need to be replaced. As with all aquatic displays it is necessary to change a portion of the water on a regular basis. We advise that approximately 20% of the water should be changed every 2-3 weeks. Water can be changed by siphoning out of the first part of the filter chamber which will automatically 'vacuum' any debris that may have gathered. Alternatively water can be taken from the main table area whilst the top is removed. Cold water fish are generally quite 'hardy' and easy to look after. It is important to purchase healthy and disease free fish to start with. Look for any white spots, red sores, cloudy eyes, body slime fungus or fin rot. All these are tell tale signs of sick fish and should be avoided at all costs. The following sizes are available:
This table is surely a nice add on to any house.
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Artificial plants have come a long way since they were first introduced and now look more realistic than ever. Their durability also makes them suitable to be kept with fish that would destroy live plants and those that would eat the real thing. They are useful for hiding equipment and making areas feel more secure for nervous fish, and, of course, they will tolerate any type of water.
Why use artificial plants?
Many species of fish are found in the vicinity of live plants in the natural world, but they are there to eat them as well as use them for cover. Using artificial plants in place of live plants provides an effective solution to this problem, since they can provide cover without being on the menu.
In any case, growing live plants is not always straightforward and can turn a functional aquarium into something resembling a nursery, involving the use of high-specification lighting and fertilization. For those who want an easy life, artificial plants are a good idea, as all they will need is an occasional clean.
Plastic plants
There is a huge range of plastic plants, and they replicate most species of aquatic plant and some terrestrial plants too. They come in different sizes for planting in the foreground, midground and background of the tank, and specimen plants are also available. You will discover that most types of plastic plant are modular in design, so that pieces can be pulled off one stem and added to another. They are impervious to all medications and water conditions, and because of this will last almost forever.
Silk plants
Silk is an alternative material for replica aquarium plants, and because it is finer material than plastic, the plants move in the water more naturally and have realistic leaf shapes. They are cheap and can be mixed with live plants and not stand out as being fakes. Many types are available and they are easily anchored in the gravel.
Plant mats
Plastic plants are also available on square mats designed to be placed in the substrate. Each mat contains a number of the same plants, mimicking the complete planting schemes used in displaying aquariums, and the effect can be quite dramatic. Each plant can be removed to introduce irregularity into the design or to accommodate other decor, such as rocks or wood.
Cleaning artificial plants
A plastic plant cleaning solution especially for use with aquariums is available, but failing that plastic plants can be simply washed under the tap. Use an old toothbrush to reach the stubborn areas. Alternatively, add a little household bleach to tapwater to make a mild solution. Make sure the solution is deep enough to cover the plants completely, put them in the solution, and they should soon be clean and looking new again. Make up a separate solution of tapwater in which to plunge the plants and remove the residue from the bleach. To make extra sure that all traces of the bleach are removed, give them a lengthy rinse under the tap and they will then be ready to place back in the aquarium. Always wear gloves to protect your hands when cleaning in this way.
Silk plants are quite durable and can be cleaned with abrasive pad or a plastic plant cleaning solution formulated for aquatic use.
Tips: There are many species of algae-eating fish, including the Bristle nose catfish and the red tailed black shark, which are well adapted to consume the algae that form on the leaves of artificial plants. By adding some of these fish to your tank, they may well do the job of cleaning for you and gain a source of food at the same time.
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When you are deciding on which type of fish you would like to keep and what sort of aquarium you want, also give some thought to how much time you can devote to fishkeeping. All types of livestock make constant demands on the owner, and essential maintenance means just that - it simply has to be done! Fish will always need feeding and their water will always need to be changed, so bear this in mind when you are choosing a particular system. For example, a larger tank, with a proportionately greater number of fish, will mean larger water changes, which will take more time and energy to carry them out.
Routine tasks
To give a better idea of what is involved in aquarium fishkeeping, the lists below detail the daily, weekly and monthly tasks. Some of these are optional and will depend on the particular type of fish you are keeping, but most of them will have to be built into your routine to ensure responsible and rewarding fishkeeping.
Daily tasks
Index of Tropical Fish Diseases
By Leslie Heaton
After creating and maintaining your beautiful aquarium, all the time and money you spent on it, the last thing you want to deal with is tropical fish diseases. Coming home and finding your fish covered with white spots, the eyes swollen or the fins disintegrating is a blow to any aquarist.
Following are the categories and symptoms of the most common diseases in tropical fish.
Fungal Diseases
Fungal diseases will usually occur after the fish has already been weakened through stress, parasites or a bacterial disease. In some cases the fish will appear sluggish and in the latter stages develop cysts. Another type of fungal infection will produce white growths that eventually turn into cotton like tuffs on the skin.
Bacterial Diseases
Bacterial diseases often need to be treated with antibiotic medications. Fish infected with bacteria often develop bulging eyes, ulcers and open sores. One bacteria causes a disease called mouth fungus that looks like a fungal infection on the mouth. Other signs of a bacterial infection include a lose of appetite, hollow belly, erratic swimming, and disintegrating fins.
Viral Diseases
Viral diseases are fortunately fairly uncommon in fish. On sign of a viral disease is white swellings on the body of the fish. Viruses cannot be treated with medication because they use the host's body to reproduce and live on. If you suspect your fish has a viral disease, it should be removed and placed in another tank so the other fish will not be infected with the same virus. The best thing you can do is to provide a clean environment and a healthy, nutritious diet. A virus can only be identified by special equipment and it is often difficult to detect.
Parasitic Diseases
One symptom most parasitic diseases have in common is the fish scraping against or rubbing objects. The parasites are eating through the flesh of the fish and if they aren't removed will eat into the organs and kill the fish. Simply pulling the parasites off will often do more damage to the fish. A bath of potassium permanganate or a salt solution is often the best method to remove parasites. In some cases you will be able to see the parasites on the skin of the fish and thus confirm the problem is parasites, or you may notice other signs such as rapid gilling, clamped fins, red skin and weight loss.
Protozoan Diseases
These diseases are caused by the protozoan parasite that infects the intestinal tract. Several diseases will cause a yellow to light brown dust on the body. On commonly known protozoan disease is called ich. Ich is characterized by small white spots all over the body. The fish will breath rapidly and have clamped fins. Other types cause excessive slim on the body, frayed fins, bloated body and a lack of appetite.
The best way to avoid tropical fish diseases is to have a clean tank and provide adequate nutrition. New fish should always be quarantined for two to four weeks.
Leslie Heaton is a tropical fish lover with a weakness for buying more aquariums. Visit her Squidoo lens on tropical fish diseases to find out more.
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New tank syndrome is the term used to describe the all-too-frequent problem of stocking a newly set up aquarium with too many fish too quickly. Toxic ammonia and nitrite build up because as there are not enough friendly bacteria in the tank to consume and break down the waste that is being produced by the fish. The fish that are in the aquarium may become lethargic and go off their food, and at worst, the occupants may die if levels continue to rise and are not remedied.
How to prevent new tank syndrome
New tank syndrome can be best avoided by following the advice given here. When you set up the aquarium, use a dechlorinating liquid or tapwater purifier to remove chlorine and chloramines from the tapwater. Chlorinated tapwater is not only harmful to fish, but will also prevent the build-up of all types of bacteria, including the ones that you are trying to encourage to colonize your filter. Once the tank is full of water, switch on the filter and leave it running continuously for the future. By doing this, you will ensure that friendly bacteria will begin to multiply in the filter media within only a few days.
Leave the aquarium without any fish for at least a week and add some liquid filter bacteria to the tank, following the instructions on the bottle. This will provide millions of extra bacteria into the aquarium, and they will help to break down waste when the fish are added. Choose hardy fish, like Platies and danios, and add only a few each week. It is tempting to add lots of fish at a time, but this way the bacteria levels can multiply at a healthy rate and so catch up with the amount of waste that is being produced by the fish.
Feed only small amounts once a day for the first few weeks. This will be fine for a few, small fish and will prevent large amounts of uneaten food from polluting the water. Remove any uneaten food or dead fish immediately with a clean net, as they will soon break down, causing excess ammonia in the water.
Do not maintain or clean the filter media for the first four weeks after installation, because this may disturb the developing bacteria.
New tank syndrome FAQs
Q: How do i know for sure if my tank is going through new tank syndrome?
A: Use a test kit to read accurately how much ammonia or nitrite is in the tank water. Anything above zero will cause stress and discomfort to the fish.
Q: What can i do to get rid of it?
A: Stop feeding the fish for a day or two, which will cause less waste production. Add some liquid filter bacteria to the tank to boost the filters' capacity to break down the waste. If the fish are dying, then carry out a 50 percent water change every day until the levels are noticeably lower, continuing to test the water to monitor the quality.
Q: Can i still add new fish while i have new tank syndrome?
A: No way. The new arrivals will be even more susceptible to the high ammonia and nitrite levels and may die within hours of being added to the tank.
Q: Are there any hardy fish that are best adapted to cope with new tanks?
A: Yes, danios and Platies are noted for their hardiness and tolerance of nitrite. Neon Tetras and Tiger barbs are not. Dianos are the best choice for thanks less than 6 weeks old because of their hardiness and their ability to do well in the less than perfect conditions of an immature tank.
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Water changing will vary depending on the type of aquarium you are keeping - tropical, coldwater or marine - and whether you use tapwater or purified water. Water changes are an essential part of fishkeeping and, if done properly, cannot be overdone. Remember that in nature the biggest form of filtration is dilution, as waste products are dissipated by the vastness of the body of water, and even the best filters will not remove nitrates and replace essential minerals in your fish tank.
Frequency
It is advisable to replace about 25 per cent of the aquarium water weekly, as this should help to keep nitrates low. If you are using tapwater for the changes, test it to make sure that the pH and hardness are to the liking of your fish. Check also that the nitrate level in the tapwater is sufficiently low. If the nitrate is reading at 40 parts per million (ppm) or over, it could actually be contributing to a rising nitrate level in the main tank, and if this is the case you should consider finding alternative water sources or purifiers. If you are in any doubt about the suitability of your local tapwater, consult your local authority.
Tips : The most effective way to keep a tank clean is to combine water changing with filter maintenance, algae wiping and gravel vacuuming.
Equipment
Set aside some clean buckets and siphon tubes especially for water changes and do not use them for any other purpose, such as washing the car. If you are using large containers to store water, check that they are made from suitable food-grade plastic, because some plastics may cause your fish to die if the chemicals leach into the water. Keep stored water in dark to stop algal blooms forming and run an air stone into it to keep it fresh. If using reverse osmosis water, an air stone placed within it can help to keep the pH stable. If left for too long without aeration, it may become very acidic
Tip: One natural source of tank water is rainwater. It is naturally soft and devoid of minerals, but should be filtered through carbon to remove any traces of pollutants. If you are collecting run-off rainwater from a roof, check that the roof is made from a suitable clean, inert material.
Tank water Dos and Don'ts
Take note of the following points to help you avoid problems in your water-changing routine. Incorrect water changes may do more harm than good.
Do
Many fish diseases can be avoided by keeping your fish healthy in the first place, but a major factor that can have a detrimental effect on the immune systems of fish is stress. Stress is responsible for, or linked to, many fish deaths and is a more common problem than many aquarist believe. Stress can be caused by number of factors in the aquarium, and these are noted below.
Causes and signs of stress
There are obvious factors that can cause stress to aquarium fish, such as aggression from other fish and overcrowding, but there are also invisible causes such as poor water quality or the wrong water conditions. To check for signs of stress use a test kit to give a clear idea of how the system is running. Second, use your eyes to look for indications of rapid gill movement, reluctance to feed and a change of behaviour.
Treating stress
Some water conditioners contain Aloe vera or herbal extracts and have been shown to reduce stress, especially when you are introducing or transporting fish, but normally the cause of the stress must be removed if the fish is to recover.
Avoiding stress
Properly research the species that you are keeping and check their eventually size and long term compatibility. If you keep soft-water species with hard-water species, for example, one or none of the species will be truly happy in the long term, causing stress.
Seemingly minor factors, such as having the light on for too long, vibration from loud music or unsuitable hiding places and retreats, can stress many species.
Feeding
Once you are satisfied that stress is not a factor in your tank, you can concentrate on the long term health of your fish. Proper feeding of aquarium fish can do wonders for their health, and a well-fed fish can naturally fight off many diseases. So, be sure to follow the advice below when you are feeding your fish.
Detecting fin rots
Early detection of the illness is the best to try and prevent further fin damage. First know that clear or whitish tips on your betta's fins and tail is fin re-growth, which is a very good thing. If your betta has dark brown/black tips, holes, or tears in his fins that appear to be getting worse, they most likely have fin and tail rot.
In a worst case scenario, the fins and/or tail could be falling apart, shredding, or be completely missing.
Once Fin Rot is diagnosed, what to do next
If you caught the onset of Fin Rot quickly, it could be as easy a fix as simply changing out the water and gravel. A lot of times that is all that is necessary. However, if your betta is in a more advanced stage of fin rot, then there is a process that you will need to go through.
Here are the steps:
Note: Remember to wash your hand before and after handling the fish or the material.
Read more about fish keeping here.
The fish are swimming in pipes!
Don't Ask me how they did it. I seriously DON'T KNOW @o@
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There are essentially 4 types of coldwater fish commonly found in aquarium. They are listed below together with their tips of care.
Gold Fish
Tips 1: Ideal temperature 18-24 °C (64-75 °F)
Tips 2: 60 Gallons tank for 3 fancy goldfish or 2 common or 2 comet goldfish. 2.5cm (1 in) of fish per 60 sq cm (9.3 sq in) of tank water surface area is the bare minimum. Remember we must base the calculations on the adult size of the fish.
Tips 3: A full-sized canister or hang-on filter
Tips 4: Use Air stone
Tips 5: Weekly water changes of 30-50%
Tips 6: No dangerous items in aquarium (decorations or rocks)
Tips 7: No Plecosotomus
The goldfish is the most common type of Coldwater species kept. It can live in an unheated aquarium. As they are of the carp family, goldfish produce a large amount of waste both in their feces and through their gills, releasing harmful chemicals into the water. This is because goldfish like other cyprinids, is without a stomach and only have an intestinal tract, and thus cannot digest an excess of proteins. Build-up of this waste to toxic levels can occur in a relatively short period of time, which is often the cause of a fish's sudden death. Temperatures under about 10 °C (50 °F) are dangerous to goldfish. Conversely, temperatures over 25 °C (77 °F) can be extremely damaging for goldfish. Their tanks need extensive filtration. The best style of filter for a goldfish tank is a full-sized canister or hang-on filter Aeration is very important since goldfish have very high oxygen requirements, thus air stone or other means should be used. Regular water changes are necessary for a healthy aquarium. Most goldfish tanks require a weekly water change of about 30 - 50% to keep the aquarium in proper working order. Large, smooth gravel is most preferred since goldfish will sift through the gravel all day long and you don't want them to swallow rocks or cutting their mouths. Live plants aren't usually kept with goldfish because they absolutely love to munch on them. Delicate goldfish such as Bubble-Eyes or Telescope-Eyes should not be kept in an aquarium with sharp rocks. There shouldn't be any decorations with holes or caves smaller than the goldfish can swim through without scraping their sides and/or stomachs. Never keep Plecostomus with gold fish, as they love for the thick slime coating on a goldfish's body. Many goldfish dies from the Pleco's assault.
White cloud
Tips 1: Ideal Temperature 18-24 °C (64-75 °F)
Tips 2: 2 feet tank for 20 white clouds (maximum of 35).
Tips 3: Keep in a group of more than 6.
Tips 4: 20% weekly water changes
The White clouds stays small (4cm) is ideal to keep in smaller aquariums. They have a wide temperature tolerance and can survive water temperatures as low as 5°C (41°F). But the ideal water temperature will be 18-24 °C (64-75 °F). They need a well planted tank with open space to swim. They are schooling fish and should be kept in groups of 6 or more. They are very peaceful and can be housed with other type of community fish (Dianos) that shares the same water condition. Good filtration with gentle current is needed for them to stay happy.
Koi
Tips 1: Ideal Temperature 18-24 °C (64-75 °F)
Tips 2: 1200 gallon pond with 12 full size koi
Tips 3: Good Mechanical Filtration
Tips 4: More than 10% water changes weekly
A Koi pond needs to provide clean, well oxygenated water in order to produce a healthy environment for fish to live and grow. The basic requirements are: To be large enough to accommodate the potential size that Koi can grow to (24 inches / 60cm plus). A pond of around 8 feet x 6 feet and 4 feet deep (2.5m x 2m x 1.2m) containing approx' 1200 gallons (5500L) would be a sensible minimum for keeping Koi in the temperate climates. Koi produce large amounts of solid waste, so your ponds' filter system must have good mechanical filtration to remove solids from the water. The mechanical filter can be in the form of nylon brushes, plastic media or a vortex that slowly spins the water and allows larger, heavier particles to settle out. The mechanical filter must be easy to clean and if it is fed from a bottom drain must have a valve to shut it off from the pond for regular cleaning. It is recommended to clean this section on at least a weekly basis. Even with the best filter systems, frequent water changes are essential to keep your fish in good health and obtain maximum growth. 10% a week is a good minimum to aim at, in an averagely stocked pond. Your biological filter will break down Ammonia but there are many others by products of the fishes' metabolism that will gradually build up unless water changes are carried out.
Diano
Tips 1: Ideal Temperature 18-24 °C (64-75 °F)
Tips 2: 2 feet tank for 20 Dianos (Maximum 30)
Tips 3: Keep in a group of more than 6.
Tips 4: 20% weekly water changes
Basically, the care for Diano is almost similar to the white clouds. The only difference here is that Diano are slightly larger than white cloud. Diano can grow to 5cm while White cloud typically max out at 4cm. Dianos and White clouds can be kept together and they will school together in groups.
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